Classic DIY PreCut Sauna Kit by Scandia

The ceiling height should be no higher than 7 ft, as it is important to bring the heat down to where the bathers can use it at bench level. It is also more economical to heat, and the Sauna will heat faster. Some commercial saunas require an 8 ft ceiling, in this case, attention must be paid when sizing the heater. Saunas beyond 8 ft in height can cause the heater to work too hard and malfunction.

We recommend one lower vent, starting at about 4″ off the floor, somewhere near the Sauna heater, and a second vent on any other wall, preferably on the opposite wall of the intake vent, approx 24” off the floor between the upper and lower bench level. We do not recommend a vent at the upper bench level or higher, or in the ceiling. Venting is not a safety issue; vents only make it more comfortable for the bather. Vents are merely a cutout in the wall or a passageway from the Sauna to an existing room adjoining the Sauna. No duct work is required.

We recommend venting from the Sauna to an area inside the house. The minimal heat that escapes into the house from the vents will not damage your drywall, wallpaper, paint, etc. You may vent to outside air if your desire, but keep in mind that cold air from outside may increase your Sauna heat-up time.

No, a drain is actually not recommended as hosing down the sauna for cleaning will damage the interior wood. (In rare cases a drain might be required by code). There is actually very little water drainage in a dry sauna. You should however, make sure to have a waterproof floor such as tile or concrete to allow for easy clean up.

Yes, but you will need to secure plywood onto your metal frame. Wood on the inside of your framing is needed to provide a surface for the wall boards to be nailed to. Another option would be to apply wood nailers across/in-between the metal studs to provide locations to secure/nail the wall boards to. This method would require a vertical installation of wall boards.

Yes. When we take the order, we go through a pre-cut worksheet whichasks for the stud to stud measurements. Some angles may need to be cutonsite.

No, in many instances where the heater is placed by the door, a vent is typically not necessary. If the heater is located in an area in the room away from fresh air, we recommend that venting is planned.

The humidity must be absorbed into the wood to keep the atmosphere relatively dry. Softwoods have this property and are cool to the touch. Hardwoods absorb heat and become too hot to sit or lean against. The wood must be kiln dried to within 9-11% moisture content to prevent shrinkage and warping.

Yes, insulation prevents heat loss. We recommend R-11 or R-13 fiberglass insulation. The insulation may be standard paper faced. All the walls and the ceiling should be insulated.

A Sauna must have a waterproof floor so that it can be easily washed and kept clean and sanitary, and free of odor. We recommend washable floors such as tile, sealed cement/concrete, or heavy duty vinyl. Wooden flooring is not hygienic in a sauna as it absorbs perspiration, facilitates odor causing bacteria, and it cannot be thoroughly cleaned.

Commercial Saunas should have a floor drain to remove excess water by bathers and for cleaning purposes. Most residential Saunas do not need a floor drain, unless a water hose is used for cleaning.

Damp mop the floor as needed. The benches can be cleaned with a mild soap applied with a wet cloth. To remove perspiration stains on the wall boards light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper may be required periodically. To keep your room looking its best, always lay or sit on towels. Apply sauna wood oil periodically as needed to refurbish the wood, especially in commercial applications.

Yes you need to provide some type of roof protection for an outdoor sauna. We offer roof kits for all models as an option, but could design your own roof for the sauna. It is important that there is some sort of roof to protect the sauna from the elements.